Sri Lanka :: The land of dreamy right point breaks.
Ive been pretty lucky to have been able to travel a fair bit over the past few years; but a lot of those trips were for work and I wasn’t always doing everything that I wanted to do. A few years ago I actually was asked to shoot a surf/yoga retreat in the south-west of Sri Lanka.. It was a pretty sweet gig, free accommodation and free food, just had to shoot the guests throughout the day, which normally just meant surfing, exploring and yoga-ing(?) so yeah I was ‘working’ but it was still bloody nice. But ever since then, I’d felt the need to return to Sri lanka, to do it completely on my own terms.
Fast forward a few years and I found myself thinking back to the Tasmanian sized island below India. This time I had one place and one thing in mind; Aragum Bay and to surf everyday for a month. The idea I had was essentially a holiday; something that seemed kinda foreign to me. Ive been fortunte enough to have been born with a very high level of anxiety, so turning myself off and relaxing can be quite challenging at times. I figured that having some mates come along would help with that, and turns out convincing your mates to come surfing everyday for a month while everyone else freezes back in Tasmania isn’t that hard.. so pretty quickly there were a few of us with tickets out of tassie’s winter to score some warm water waves.
Our routine was pretty simple; wake up early and jump in the tuk tuk’s waiting out the front of the hostel for us each morning. Make the short drive to one of the many right hand points in the area (depending on size, wind, direction, crowds) surf for as long as we could before we got hungry, tired or the wind turned onshore. Then we would head back to the hostel, grab some breakfast/lunch and spend the next few hours either; reading, napping, exploring or socializing before getting some more food in preparation for another surf in the afternoon. What came after that varied from night to night, if energy levels were still up, we would walk to the pub/bottleshop and buy a couple dozen lions (local beer) and goto one of the beach parties or sometimes we would just have them back at the hostel and hang with the bunch of legends that were also staying there.
Of course there were days where not everything was so routine, we were travelling afterall , and routine and travel don’t always go hand in hand. Unexpected bumps in the road; broken boards, lost passports, hospital visits, police run ins, stolen property, this list goes on! But also so many beautiful unplanned moments; incredible food, random wildlife sittings, cultural experiences, new found friendships, sunset sessions with just us out, drunken shenanigans and so many laughs and amazing memories..
The days were tough, but we made it through.